Unlike conventional incandescent bulbs, energy-saving ones have certain advantages: they consume electricity several times less, their life is quite long, and the light is very bright. Currently most apartments, office and industrial premises are equipped with these lamps. This choice is justified, because electricity is very significant savings.
However, a rather unpleasant situation often happens when an energy-saving lamp fails. Usually its resource is 8 thousand. hours of work, but she may even flaw your deadline. It's a shame, because it is expensive. However, you should not despair, as the energy-saving lamp can be repaired. therefore it is better not to throw out burned copies, because of several faulty lamps you can assemble one in good condition with your own hands. So how to repair energy-saving lamps with your own hands?
- 1 Energy Saving Lamp Design
- 2 Causes of Energy Saving Lamp Failures
- 3 Repair of energy-saving lamp in case of electronic ballast failure
- 4 Repair energy-saving lamp with a defective spiral
Energy Saving Lamp Design
Such a lighting device consists of the following elements:
- gas discharge flask;
The discharge flask can be spiral and U-shaped. Inside it is coated with phosphor, and two spirals are soldered to its ends. If there are any damages on the surface of the bulb, for example, cracks, darkened areas or chips, then such a lamp is no longer subject to repair. All other types of faults can be repaired by hand.
The reasons for the breakdown of the energy-saving lighting device can be:
- malfunction electronic ballast;
- burnout of one of the filaments.
Causes of Energy Saving Lamp Failures
Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to disassemble the lamp and find out the cause of the incident. This is done as follows:
- It is necessary to disconnect the flask from the cap.
Perform such an action must be very carefully, so as not to damage the base. The elements of the lamp are interconnected by snaps, such as, for example, a mobile phone or a remote control. It is best to use a screwdriver that has a thin and wide sting. One of the latches is usually located in the place where the lamp parameters are applied. A screwdriver must be inserted into the slot and, carefully turning, move the halves apart. Then the screwdriver should be further moved around the circle until the lamp disengages into two parts and after that the flask and the base are disconnected. The wires that go from the base are very short and can break off from sudden movement.
- After that disconnect the wires that go to the filament.
2 pairs of conductors are moving away from the bulb - these are the filaments. To test their performance should be disconnected. Usually they are not soldered, but wound on wire pins in several turns, so disconnecting them will be easy enough.
- Check the performance of the filament.
The bulb typically contains two spirals having an electrical resistance of 10–15 ohms. Their should be checked with a multimeter, determining which one is burned out. If the threads are both integers, then the problem is most likely in the ballast. But if one of the filaments is burnt out, then the electronic ballast is in order.
Repair of energy-saving lamp in case of electronic ballast failure
If the cause of the failure of the energy-saving lamp lies in the electronic ballast, then find all blown items and clarify what parts can be used further. To find out the cause of the malfunction, the electronic board is inspected from all sides and visually determines its condition: are there any mechanical damages, cracks, chips.
Also needed pay attention to the appearance of the elements, because it is possible to detect burnt semiconductors, traces of transformer winding, blown capacitors. If the external examination of the board does not reveal any faults, begin to check the operability of its main elements.
- Fuse (limiting resistor). One end of such an element is soldered to the central contact of the base, and the other end to the board. Basically, the fuse is located in the heat shrinkable tube. If the resistor fails, it burns and breaks the entire electrical circuit. They call it with the help of a multimeter: if the element is corrected, then the resistance is 10 ohms, if it is defective, then infinity (break).
- Diode bridge. Such an element of an economical lamp usually has four diodes, and its duty is to rectify the voltage of the 220 V network. To check the diodes, it is not necessary to unsolder them, but you should ring directly on the board. If they are in order, then the direct resistance of the p − n junction will be 750 ohms, and the reverse will be infinity. In the event of a faulty diode, its resistance will be in a break in both directions.
- Filter capacitor. This element smoothes the ripple of the rectified voltage. Basically it burns out in thrifty Chinese-made lamps. Before it burns out, the light starts to work with various deviations: it buzzes, turns on poorly, sometimes you can see a slight blinking in the off state. Visually, the failure of this element is easy enough to notice. This may be drips, bloating, darkening.
- High voltage capacitor. Thanks to this element, an impulse is created, providing a discharge in the flask. Its breakdown is considered the most common cause of failure of energy-saving lamps. Such malfunction is detected very easily: as a result of this, the lamp ceases to light up, and in the region of the electrodes one can observe the glow that is formed due to the heating of the filaments.
After that, you should check the health of the remaining elements of the electronic board: diodes, transistors and resistors. Before checking transistors must be unsoldered, because there are connections between resistors, diodes, etc. between their p − n junctions, as a result of which the multimeter may be incorrect.
You should know that if one malfunction was identified, then another can often be detected, since it is not just one element that burns out, but the whole circuit. Therefore, for the exact result, use the following method.
On the working board, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the structural elements and compare with the indicators of the non-working elements. This method allows you to avoid time-consuming watering.
So, if one lamp has a spiral, but an electronic scheme whole, and the other has a choke damaged, then repairing it yourself will be the following: they connect the working ballast and a working flask. Such components fit together if the lamps are the same. As a result, after repair the lamp continues to work as before.
Repair energy-saving lamp with a defective spiral
Another common cause of a failure of an economical lamp is the burning of the filament. You can see for yourself that the spiral burned. This is determined by the appearance of the flask - in this place the glass will be darkened. But it is advisable to measure the resistance of the filament. If one of the filaments has burnt down, the flask can be thrown away, and the electronic ballast can be used to repair other lamps. But this fault can also be eliminated.
Repair is that you have to short the conclusions of the burnt spiral. Of course, such a lamp after repair will last not so long, because only one filament thread will work for wear.
However, such a repair with their own hands has the right to exist. First, disconnect and check the spiral for operability with a multimeter. The burnt thread should be bridged with a resistor, with the same rating as the resistance of the normal thread. Shunting is necessary because the circuit is in the cliff and the lamp will not start without it. The resistance of a working yarn is usually 4−5 ohms; a 1-watt resistor with a nominal value of 5 ohms is best suited to replace a burned-out spiral.
Energy-saving lamps so firmly entered the life of a modern person that it is difficult to imagine an apartment or office without these lighting fixtures. They rather economically spend electricity, but at the price rather expensive. If they fail, you can repair the energy-saving lamps with your own hands. This will significantly save your money.